All 24 in-depth pieces we’ve published on Lisbon — newest first.

A plateau neighbourhood with 1923 tascas, a market hall that runs until one in the morning and two gardens that do the work of a living room. This is what I order and what it costs.

A first-trip plan built on the quieter half of Lisbon: rooftop viewpoints you can stand still in, tascas at local prices, and the walks, ferries and closing days that make them work.

The metro, four tram routes, two railways, a ferry and the two lifts still running cover every corner of Lisbon and both day trips. Here is how to use them, what each ride costs, and when to give up and call a car.

Fifteen honest Lisbon addresses, graded by how much hill stands between you and bed, starting at a €35 dorm bed and ending in a palace garden.

October in Lisbon is warm, wet and getting shorter by the week. Here is where I actually go when the rain lands, with prices, closing days and the two big museums you can't count on this year.

I do this one as a day trip up the coast from Lisbon: boats hauled up on the sand, beaches you can actually swim at, and the fish kitchens I keep going back to.

A calm, walkable four-night plan for Lisbon built entirely on tram 28, the Cais do Sodré ferry and the Sintra line. The timed slots, door realities and hill warnings are all written down.

A downhill day through two quiet residential districts of Lisbon, following a small tram line to a convent and a lunch nobody rushes.

A half-hour train from Lisbon buys you three kilometres of level seafront, four small museums, a wind-hammered surf beach and shellfish sold by the kilo. This is how to order the day.

How to plan the two days around the EDP Lisbon Marathon on 10 October 2026: bib collection at FIL, and the flat riverfront that carries you to the finish.

How I spend October in Lisbon: long shellfish lunches, two museums for the wet afternoons, and three train rides out that beat any packed itinerary.

Three free terraces, a garden you can climb without stairs, and lunch on the largo for €15: how to spend a day on Lisbon's highest central hill.

Fifteen iron pavilions with cold beer, no bookings and closing times that vary wildly, strung into one easy Lisbon evening.

A street-by-street night walk on the most layered hill in Lisbon: a rooftop above a shabby shopping centre, Mozambican ribs, fado in the house that made it, and a gig room that runs to 04:00.

Every June, Alfama turns its doorways into grills, the Avenida into a parade route and the cathedral steps into a mass wedding — here's how to actually eat, watch and survive Santo António's festival season in 2026.

A bakery-by-bakery route through Lisbon's rival pastel de nata camps, from the monastery counter in Belém to the neighbourhood café that keeps winning the contest nobody's heard of.

Lisbon's Tram 28 rattles from a Graça viewpoint to a Campo de Ourique cemetery gate past cathedrals, fado's birthplace and the city's oldest bakery — here's how to ride it properly, block by block, without pretending the crowds aren't part of the story.

A timing-first route through Sintra's palaces and gardens - when to book, which sites the coach tours skip entirely, and where to go once the crowds have moved on.

Under Lisbon's great red bridge, a nineteenth-century printing complex became the city's creative heart — here's how I spend an afternoon in it, told by a writer who won't praise a kitchen she hasn't eaten at twice.

A calm, honest walk through Lisbon's fado rooms — which houses suit a first-timer, which suit two, and which you should never bring a group of ten to.

A calm, walkable route through Lisbon's tiled facades, monasteries, beer halls and working workshops — five centuries of azulejos, honestly mapped, from the Benfica palace to the studio where you glaze your own.

A calm, walkable plan for catching Lisbon's evening light — from the free hilltop terraces to the rooftops that genuinely face the sun, and the boat that beats all of them.

The tascas still cooking for Lisbon first — which to book, which to queue for, and which can actually seat your whole table.

Where to actually drink above the river in 2026 — sorted by the night you're planning, and honest about the queues, doors and seasons.